Michelin. A leading French tyre manufacturer with a rich history of over 100 years, has long been known for its reliable rubber. Founded by brothers Andre and Edouard Michelin, the Clermont-Ferrand-based company is one of the two largest tyre manufacturers in the world alongside Japanese brand, Bridgestone. But Michelin is more than just a manufacturer, it is the globally recognised voice of authority on luxury dining.
For starters
Created in 1900, the Michelin Guide was a free informational book containing maps, tyre repair instructions, mechanics, gas stations, hotels, and… you guessed it. Restaurants. The intention of the guide was to encourage driving around France, and as a result, boost sales of Michelin tyres.
Within a decade, the Michelin Guide had spread to continental Europe and Northern Africa. It wasn’t until 1920 or so that Michelin decided to turn this complimentary item into a paid publication, costing seven Francs. One day, Andre Michelin walked into one of his shops, to see his beloved Michelin guides used to prop up a workbench, and then remarking, ‘Man only truly respects what he pays for’. Charging for the guide was, in hindsight, a wise decision. Over 30 million copies have been sold worldwide.
By the mid-1920s, it became clear that fine dining was the primary attraction of the guide. To capitalise on its success, Michelin focused on crafting a credible and exclusive list of top food establishments, marked by the famous Michelin Star. In 1931, the three-star system we see today was implemented.
Since then, the Michelin Star has become the universal indicator of the highest quality cuisine experiences. The best-selling guide now rates over 40,000 restaurants across four continents, and the associated prestige has not dwindled.
Michelin Star World Rankings
While the guide has become a global phenomenon, its home country continues to dominate the ratings. As of 2023, France has 626 restaurants on the list, followed by Japan with 414. Italy (381), Germany (329) and Spain (248) round out the top five. Ranking by city, Tokyo sits in the number one spot, with Paris and New York featured in the top five alongside Kyoto and Osaka. While the guide has been accused in the past of being ‘Francocentric’, there has been plenty of global expansion in recent years.
The Inspectors
Surrounded by mystery and infamy, the 90 or so critics who review establishments for Michelin are totally unknown. Most of what we know comes from a handful of interviews and a book written by a former inspector, ‘l’Inspecteur se met à table’. The book delves into the secrecy of the occupation, as well as the qualifications needed to enter the post. Michelin inspectors must have a degree in hospitality, cooking, or a similar field, as well as five years of experience. A success rate of 0.2% during the hiring process for their New York guide shows how elusive this post really is. The lucky few who make it through the hiring stage head to France for a six-month training course, before returning to their region to carry out an apprenticeship. By the time training is complete, the quality criteria are drilled into the trainees’ minds, and they are ready to rate.
How to spot a Michelin man
The life of a Michelin inspector seems a lonely one. They usually travel for three weeks out of the month, visiting multiple hotels and restaurants each day. Michelin has done a fantastic job in maintaining discretion, even as the popularity of the guide has soared, but there are clues to watch out for. Tables are always booked under a fake name, and the maximum amount of courses are ordered, often including the chef’s special. Don’t expect any leftovers either! Seasoned restaurateurs look for these tells, and keep an eye out for note-taking and photography, as well as checking for name discrepancies between credit cards and reservations.
But what are these cuisine connoisseurs looking for? The Michelin Guide defines its criteria as the following:
- Quality of products.
- Mastery of flavour and cooking.
- Chef’s personality in the dining experience.
- Value for money.
- Consistency across visits.
While these are the official five judging points, intangibles such as service quality and general atmosphere also have a part to play in the decision.
Money Talk
The financial impact a Michelin Star can have on a business is just as important as the reputation boost. According to Joel Robuchon, the most decorated chef in the history of the guide (32 at one point), one Michelin star increases revenue by 20%. Two stars give a 40% boost. And three Michelin Stars can increase revenue by 100%. This effect was backed up by research in the Stanford Economic Review, demonstrating the considerable financial impact of the stars. The allure of the Michelin Star can be demonstrated by a $150,000 bid from Florida’s board tourism board back in 2021, for inspectors to come review the state’s cuisine. This figure is dwarfed in comparison with the $4.4 million pledged to Michelin in 2018 by the Tourism Authority of Thailand.
If you can’t handle the heat…
While the Michelin Star is considered the pinnacle of the restaurant business, the work that goes into achieving and maintaining this honour is not as glamorous as the finished product. Many chefs work up to 70 hours per week, in a state of constant pressure. It is common practice for employers to include an opt-out clause in contracts, in relation to weekly work limit regulations.
The Dark Side of the Michelin Guide
Perfection and consistency are part and parcel of a chef’s daily life. A 2017 Trade Union survey of chefs in London revealed that 27% resort to alcohol to cope with the demanding role, while a staggering 51% have suffered from some form of depression as a result of their careers. These figures account for chefs of all levels, but it seems logical to assume that the effects are exacerbated in a Michelin-standard environment. It comes as no surprise then, to see some restaurants withdraw from consideration, and others even return their stars. Gordon Ramsay, known for his toughness and hot temper, admitted to crying over the loss of a star. But Michelin is making efforts to protect the mental health of chefs, increasing transparency around forthcoming star deductions. This comes after the suicides of two Michelin chefs in the past two decades, something that needs to be addressed.
Food for thought…
While the internet has led to the emergence of many reputable reviewers, like Trip Advisor, Yelp and Google, the Michelin Guide still has the final word on fine dining. As more is revealed about the taxing nature of the restaurant business, Michelin must toe the line, maintaining high standards without pushing the bounds of reason.
This unlikely tale of tyres and taste-making has shaped an industry, and driven up the quality of dining experiences across the globe. The prestige and recognition associated with the Michelin Star all but guarantees continued growth, and with plenty of countries yet to be visited by the infamous inspectors, there are no signs of this historic guide losing traction any time soon.